Tuesday, January 8, 2013
Doggy Zen by Virginia Wind
One of the biggest issues that complicates our connection with dogs is pushy, jumpy, grabby, bouncy behavior that is rude in both the dog and human world. It's as if our furry friend has turned into a 6 year old at a birthday party, high on cake and clowns and animal balloons and bounce houses. He gets too close to your face, grabs at you because "YOU HAVE TO HAVE THAT THING RIGHT THERE RIGHT NOW!" and then has a meltdown because you said no.
Basically, the secret to beginning to modify this unwanted behavior boils down to teaching impulse control. Jazz Up/Settle Down and Doggy Zen are my two favorite methods to teach a dog clearly that calm behavior opens the door to everything his little heart desires.
This is Doggy Zen, as instructed by Virginia Wind.
Doggy Zen Steps 1-10
General rules:
Always be calm.
Other than when instructed, keep your (very verbal species) mouth closed We always want to talk to “help” our dogs get it right. Self-control is best learned by the dog learning to make the right decision without interference. That’s what the clicker or marker word does, it “marks” the right behavior.
Always end on a positive.
To avoid excess typing, when “mark” is used, it means click or say your marker word.
(Melissa's Note: I like to use marker words like "Nice" or "Yes." "Good" is used so frequently in our conversations with our dogs, the value can be reduced. Remember to keep your marker word in a praise tone, but without a lot of excitement or fanfare. )
Doggy Zen Step 1
Put a treat in your hand and close your fist.
Put your fist right in front of your dog's nose, I like to be sitting and rest my forearm on my leg.
Let the dog sniff, nibble and mouth at your hand. If the dog is mouthing or pawing hard, put a glove on. Fireplace/barbeque gloves or heavy winter ski gloves are thick enough to protect your hand.
Be patient. Dogs who have not ever learned self-control take a while to figure this out.
The instant the dog moves the head away from your fist, mark, open your fist, drop the treat on the floor and cue the dog to “go get it”.
When the dog does not mug your fist three times in a row in a cold trial, move on to the next step. Note: a cold trial is the first “trial” in a session.
(Melissa's note: Trainers really aren't kidding about being prepared with a glove for rough mouthers and pawers.)
Doggy Zen Step 2
Hold a treat in your open palm right in front of the dog's face.
If the dog tries to grab it, close your fist. Do not pull your hand away from the dog.
When the dog backs off, open your fist.
The instant the dog backs away from your open palm, mark, drop the treat on the floor and cue the dog to “go get it”.
When the dog does not attempt to snatch the treat three times in a row in a cold trial, move on to the next step.
(Melissa's note: It is a good idea to keep the success rate at about 80% or 4 out of 5 repetitions prior to moving on to the next step.)
Doggy Zen Step 3
From now on, all treats are fed from your hand, you do not drop anything on the ground.
Put a treat on the ground and cover it with your hand.
The instant the dog stops trying to get the treat out from under your hand, mark, pick up the treat and hand feed it to the dog.
When the dog does not attempt to mug your hand three times in a row in a cold trial, move on to the next step.
Doggy Zen Step 4
Put a treat on the ground with your hand right next to it. If the dog tries to grab it, cover it with your hand. When the dog backs off, uncover the treat.
The instant the dog pulls his head away from the uncovered treat, mark, pick up the treat and hand feed it to the dog.
Doggy Zen Step 5
This is the same as step 4, except wait until the dog looks at your face before you mark and hand feed the treat.
If you feel like you are waiting forever, you can make little noises (do not say the dog’s name), the first one or two times.
(Melissa's note: Kissy noises or tongue click should be enough to get the dog's attention directed at you. Do not repeat the noises after one or two trials. The dog has to problem solve to learn eye contact and focus is the desired response.)
Doggy Zen Step 6
Hold a treat in both hands.
As you are feeding the dog with one hand, drop the other treat on the ground.
As this is difficult for everyone except the most coordinated people in the world who use a clicker, unless you have a second person to click, use a marker word.
If the dog grabs the treat off the ground, do not feed the treat in your hand, just do it again.
Doggy Zen Step 7
Drop the treat first, then feed from your hand, then pick up the treat and feed the dropped treat.
The period of time in between hand feeding and the dropped treat will become a "stay".
Increase the duration of the “stay”, but don’t verbally cue the dog to stay until the duration between giving the hand feeding and the dropped treat is increased to a count of 5.
Doggy Zen Step 8
This is the same as step 7, except wait for the dog to look at your face before you hand feed the treat, then pick up the other treat.
And it’s time to name it. “Leave it” is the most common name used, “mine”, “not yours” are also common names. It doesn’t matter what you name it as long as it is something you will say consistently, so make it something familiar and easy for yourself.
Doggy Zen Step 9
Put a wad of treats in one hand.
Drop a treat and then back away from the dog, saying “Leave it!” (or whatever you have named it), “Come!” in your happy voice.
If the dog comes with you, feed the wad of treats, then pick up the dropped treat and hand feed that.
(Melissa's note: This is called a 'jackpot'. Dogs understand gradient praise and reward.)
Doggy Zen Step 10
Put some low value treats (kibble is often a low value treat) in a bowl on the ground.
Walk the dog past the bowl, staying out of leash range of the bowl. If the dog tries to get to the bowl, be a tree (stand still, no talking).
The instant the dog looks at you, mark and treat with a high value treat (steak, chicken, cheese, hot dogs, etc).
Repeat, repeat, repeat until the instant the dog sees the bowl, the dog looks at you.
Monday, October 22, 2012
The Return (Bonus: Tips for Public Speaking)
I do much better with the written word. Over the last seven months, One personal issue I have had to face is my fear of public speaking. I definitely didn't overcome this fear, but I am a little more comfortable after a couple times speaking in front of Detroit City Council and Oakland County Board of Commissioners. Partially this is because I am familiar with the format and who I am speaking in front of. I also realized quickly that City Council and other legislative and executive government officials are used to citizens being nervous. I also realized that, as an animal welfare advocate, even animal lovers are not going to fight for your cause unless you can find a way your cause fits a larger purpose.
Here are my tips:
Do:
- Use notes to keep yourself on topic if needed.
- Be clear about your goals
- Keep the issues current, within the immediate scope of your goal.
- Keep the focus on citizens, neighbors, businesses, and property owners that have a stake in the outcome of your position.
- With each of your points ask yourself, from both the opposing side and the legislator's perspective, "What is it in for me?" Make sure you answer that questions.
- Remember, a legislator's primary areas of interest are always financial, public safety, and needs of the constituents. All your arguments should be centered around these concerns.
Don't
- Get caught up in all the historical issues or a long list of minutiae or personal issues with leadership of your opposition.
- Avoid repetitive testimony. Help others who will be speaking on the same goal to make complementary but distinct points.
- Focus just on your wants. Show how a larger population will benefit from your plan through greater fiscal responsibility, increased safety, and meet the needs of the constituents.
Saturday, February 25, 2012
Trainer, Consultant, Behaviorist: What Do These Titles Mean?

After having a rather interesting online exchange with a young lady who referred to herself as a behaviorist, I feel I should quickly address some confusion between the term 'dog trainer', 'behavior consultant', 'dog behaviorist' and all the acronyms related to training. Although she had quite a few years of shelter volunteer work with dogs, this woman had little practical knowledge of dog training, learning theory, anatomy, neurology, or ethology. She may have had a lot of practical experience and developed techniques that worked, but she couldn't explain why they work or any supporting science to support her claims that her techniques worked. It wasn't until a few emails later that I discovered her scholastic experiences were "reading all of Cesar Milan's books."
A dog trainer can be anyone who has taken a class or set of courses on dog training, has apprenticed or worked with a trainer. Quite honestly, anyone who says they are a trainer is a trainer. Affiliation with Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT) is not a credential. The APDT is a professional organization. Membership is available to anyone in the dog training, grooming, day care, or vet profession for $150 a year. Sometimes uncredentialed trainers appear to use 'APDT' in their professional names, such as "Suzy Snowflake, APDT" or "Joey Sunshine, Member APDT". I'm not sure why they feel the need to do that. ( For the record, my personal feeling is either be confident with your knowledge and experience, or get the actual credentials. Don't fake it.)
A certified dog trainer is nationally credentialed and has certification through Council of Certified Pet Dog Trainers (CCPDT). Designations are CPDT (certified prior to '08) or CPDT-KA (Knowledge Assessed) or CPDT-KSA (Knowledge Skills Assessed). Applicants must have 500 hours of relevant dog experience, 300 of which need to be teaching classes as a head instructor or private lessons. They must also include written references from a dog professional, vet, and client. They must pass a 250 question exam that covers husbandry (health/anatomy, breeding/gestation, tools used for grooming/handling), dog learning theory, human learning theory, ethology (study of evolution as a species), ADA law, and dog classroom management. You must re-certify every six years and do 30 hours of CCPDT approved continued education credits every two years.
A certified behavior consultant is certified through either the CCPDT or the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC). The official designation for a dog behavior consultant is Certified Canine Behavior Consultant --CCBC.
Thursday, February 16, 2012
What To Do When Animal Control Knocks
Wednesday, February 15, 2012
Blanca's Story: Cooperation, Education, Compassion
On the night of January 20th, my friend Margo was doing her rounds for C.H.A.I.N.E.D, a local organization that is committed to getting dogs off chains and properly housed through owner education and supply donations. Margo was dropping off straw and dog food donations for some families in the area around Greenfield and Joy Rd when she saw a man tossing bits of bread to an animal. Anyone who has spent time doing animal rescue in Detroit has seen any assortment of animals kept as pets: ducks, donkeys, horses, chickens. Margo has seen it all and was pretty much prepared for anything.



Thursday, February 9, 2012
Don't Invite A Bite!

Wednesday, February 1, 2012
Letter to MI Senator Hune Regarding The Use of Gas Chambers in MI Shelters

Monday, January 30, 2012
Deciphering the Difference Between Depression and Dog Issues

Lately a lot of press has been given to the story of Nick Santino's suicide. Santino was an unemployed soap actor and relatively unknown to anyone who hasn't watched All My Children or Guiding Light.
Monday, January 23, 2012
Remedial Puppy 12 x 12 x12
There are a lot of different theories about how much a puppy should be socialized to by different time periods. A number of dog trainers have come up with great advice about socialization of normal puppies that we have the opportunity to work with from birth or a very young age. Seven things a puppy should know by 7 weeks and Meet 100 people by the 100th day of life are some of them. These are great tools to use with new pups, but can be overwhelming and even detrimental for special needs dogs from feral, neglect, or sensory deprived situations. To understand the thought process behind these guides, it is helpful to know a little about critical periods in puppy development.
0 to 7 Weeks: Neonatal, Transition, Awareness, and Canine Socialization.
During this period, puppy learns about social interaction, play, and inhibiting aggression from its mother and littermates. Puppies must stay with their mother and siblings through this critical period because this is when they learn to accept discipline and basic bite inhibition.
5 to 14 Weeks: Interspecies Socialization Period.
The puppy now has the brain waves of an adult dog, but his attention span is short. This period is when the most rapid learning occurs and socialization to sounds, people, objects, and textures is vital. Dogs that miss out on human socialization during this period tend to be on a spectrum from aloof ----> fearful -----> reactive to humans. Dogs that are removed from litter mates before 7 weeks are at increased risk of reactivity to unknown dogs.
8 to 10 Weeks: Fear Imprint Period
Any traumatic, frightening or painful experience will have a more lasting effect on the puppy than if it occurred at any other time in its life.
11 to 16 Weeks: Seniority Classification Period.
Puppy starts to cut teeth and apron strings and by the end of this period the puppy begins testing its position in the family unit. He will learn more about leadership during this time than at any other time in his lifetime. Dogs who have not been around humans but were around dogs at this time will need additional work on accepting and understanding leadership and guidance from humans and are more likely to take environmental cues about rules from dogs.
4 to 8 Months: Play, Fight, and Flight Instinct Period.
Puppy also starts actively deciding how to respond to uncertainty, startling events, and fear. By 20 weeks of age, the basic development of "being a dog" is set. Any puppy not socialized to humans at this point will be a remedial learner and require a behavioral modification program. This is also when adult males begin to correct adolescent males in a more direct, rough manner.
6 to 14 Months: Second Fear Imprint Period
Puppy again shows fear of new situations and even familiar situations. He may be reluctant to approach someone or something new. It is important that you are patient and act very matter of fact in these situations. Never force the dog to face the situation. This fear period is normally more marked in male dogs.
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A feral, severely neglected, or sensory deprived dog has not had the benefit of being purposely exposed to people and novel items. Feral dogs might possibly be the most adept at responding appropriately to new objects as they have survived life on the streets and been exposed to any number of objects in their environment. However, they have not had the human contact or exposure to multiple humans. Dogs from sensory deprived environments (puppy mills, spent an entire lifetime in a kennel or on a chain) will have a very challenging time responding to novel stimulus. With that in mind, this is a modified version of the Puppy Rule of Twelve I have developed for remedial dog training for dogs like Shawn This is designed primarily for feral, severely neglected, or sensory deprived dogs.
It is important to remember when dealing with these dogs to go slowly and refrain from touch, talk, or treats when they show they are uncomfortable or scared. Be sure to reinforce "return to calm" behavior if they are fearful or uncertain. And, while a certain degree of challenging is appropriate, never force a dog to interact with a new object or person. Instead, make a note of the object and the dog's response and refer to a qualified trainer on desensitizing the dog to that object.
Because we should be flexible and patient with the needs of the dog, I am reluctant to put a time limit on when these special needs dogs should have experienced all these new things. I would say that exposure to a majority of these items and activities by twelve weeks in foster would be a good goal, but by no means should be a rule.
1. Experienced 12 different surfaces: wood flooring, carpet, tile, cement, linoleum, grass, wet grass, dirt, mud, puddles, deep pea gravel, wood chips, grates, uneven surfaces.
2. Experienced 12 different objects as enrichment: Kong, stuffed/fuzzy toys, hard toys, funny sounding toys, small tennis size ball, larger bowling ball-sized ball, wooden items, crumpled paper, cardboard items, milk jugs, pop bottles, metal bowls or pans, aluminum pie plates.
3. Experienced 12 different locations: kennel or crate, kitchen, living room, bathroom, basement, garage, laundry room with washer/dryer running, car (not moving, just get in), car (moving), veterinarian hospital (just to say hi & visit, lots of cookies, no vaccinations), walk in neighborhood.
4. Met and played with 12 new people (outside of family): adults (mostly men), elderly adults, people in wheelchairs, people who walk differently. Children and teenagers as appropriate for the dog and safety of the minor.
5. Experienced 12 different people movements: jumping up and down or jumping jacks, touching toes, twirling, reaching up high, reaching over dog, balancing on one leg, two people dancing, running in place, windmill arms, two people tossing a ball, people hugging, people tickling and laughing.
6. Exposed to 12 different noises (ALWAYS keep positive and watch dog's comfort leveled): cd of life sounds gradually on increasing volume, clapping, snapping, adults talking loudly at each other, children playing outside, doorbell, knocking, garage door opening, door slamming, dropping pie pan or cookie sheet, garage door opening, doorbell, children playing, vacuum.
7. Exposed to 12 fast moving objects (don’t allow to chase): rolling a ball or toy truck across the room, kids on skateboards, people on rollerblades, bicycles, motorcycles, cars, people jogging, scooters, vacuums, children running, children playing soccer, squirrels, cats (with dog on training tether), wheelchairs
8. Handled by owner & family 12 times a week, increasing touch as
9. Eaten from 12 different shaped containers: hand fed, wobbly bowl, metal, cardboard box, paper plate, coffee cup, coffee filter, china, pie plate, plastic, frying pan, Kong, spoon fed, paper bag,
10. Eaten in 12 different locations: back yard, front yard, crate, kitchen, living room, basement, laundry room, bathroom, friend’s house, car, school yard or park, bathtub.
11. Played with 12 different dogs as much as possible depending on dog reactivity and social needs.
12. Left alone (safely crated if needed) away from family and all other animals for increasing time periods 12 times a week.
This is modified from the "Puppy Rule of Twelve" behavior handout by Upper Valley Humane Society.
The concept for that handout was adapted from
Margret Hughes'
The concept for that handout was adapted
with permission from Pat Schaap’s “RULE OF 7” for seven week old puppies
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Dudes Are Scary!
"Research published in Current Biology asked volunteers to guess the direction of motion of figures that were represented only by points of light placed at critical joints. (Similar to the motion capture process used to make movies like Avatar in which a real person moves around with points of light attached to hips, elbows, shoulders, knees etc, and a computer records the movement of the lights.)
When watching the points of light that represented a moving figure, the volunteers said that the figures made by men were approaching, while the figures made by woman were retreating."
I have looked all over the internet to read the actual study and have only been able to find articles that reference it. And I am always looking for research that can help me understand the 'why' behind this question. If you have resources or research on this topic, please include it in the comments.
Tuesday, January 10, 2012
It's all Talk, Talk, Talk

The last few weeks, the majority of my posts have been inspired by the socialization and behavior modification plan for Shawn, a 6-8 month old shepherd mix found in a junkyard in Detroit. Shawn was born in the junkyard and has not had close-quarters interactions humans before December 28th, 2011.

Sunday, January 8, 2012
Look into My Eyes (Actually... Don't.)

In Western cultures, we value eye contact as one of the most important parts of communication. In our culture, eye contact shows we are paying attention, it is how we judge someone's character, it is the way we show how we are processing thought. We have a plethora of sayings about eyes, "Eyes are the window to the soul." "Don't believe it until you see it with your own eyes." "Look at me when I'm talking to you!"




